hong kong

Hong Kong at night from my hosts' apartment

Welcome back to the first world! That's how it felt as I travelated through Hong Kong's airport, still immaculate after 8 years.


8 years! Hard to believe it's that long since I was here. Everything here is clean and it works. The immigration is quick, simple and friendly: unlike everything in India.


The airport express whisked me to Central then a 10 minute taxi up to Wallace's flat, high on the ridge above Causeway Bay. It was good to be meeting up with old friends after all those weeks on the road, and that evening I had a few cocktails and dinner with Wallace, Ken, close friends from when I worked in HK, and a number of their friends. Next day I was invited to a pre Christmas party and I was reminded why I liked HK so much when I stayed there - it's very much a work hard, play hard lifestyle. It became rapidly very clear that Wallace and his friends all worked long long hours and only met up when they could.


HK now seems much more prosperous than when I left - the economy is on the up and up and even areas like Wanchai which were slightly seedy have had a tidy up. More buildings, even whole new districts, have shot up, and the new ones are generally of a better quality (except that awful new Cheung Tower in Central). The nightlife too seems more open, and shows evidence of the new confidence that has arisen since the early years after the handover.


The flat where Wallace and Kevin live is huge even by HK standards and has a fantastic view over the harbour and to the hills in New Territories beyond. While I was there it was exceptionally clear and I've never seen the city looking more beautiful.

The morning after I arrived I took a walk up to the Peak. Though not far, the roads here are not really designed for pedestrians The footpath often disappears and the road, blasted into the steep sides of the rock, is narrow, so you have to dodge oncoming traffic.


The Peak building has had a makeover and just reopened, and was very busy this bright Sunday before Christmas. The views are stunning - a cliche but true. I caught the Peak Tram for Central then wandered down through the Park and the aviary to Admiralty. Lots of memories.


I also visited Kowloon-side in the early evening and saw the spectacular new light show. All the big buildings on the HK side take pert in this, in a coordinated son et lumiere with a soundtrack broadcast in the main Kowloon vantage points, like in front of the Civic centre (which has also recently been done up to good effect - all those pastel tiles have gone). There are lasers and intricate light displays on most of the buildings, including the HSBC and Bank of China, and these are all linked to provide an integrated display - an amazing achievement and quite magical.


On Monday I went to Lantau and tried the new cable car installed up to the Big Buddha and the monastery at the top. A sort of Buddhist mini-theme park has sprung up around them and this detracts from the remoteness you used to feel when the only way up was by foot or bus.


Also now on Lantau there's Disneyland of course, but it doesn't really have an impact from outside. I caught a local bus then the hydrofoil from Discovery Bay to Central, then the trolleybus to Causeway Bay. Not forgettig a trip on the famous Escalator that I used to catch down from my flat every morning, then back again in the evening (when the flow was reversed). All this emphasises how well organised HK is. You only have to stand at the kerbside and a taxi will screech to a halt. The MTR (underground) system continues to expand, and I was able to visit the two stations I worked on when I was here. The infrastructure seamlessly intermeshes with the fabric of the city with well planned links into the shopping malls and residential debvelopments that is just on a different level to say London. To say they are forced into this because of the density of development and the climate is missing the point.


So my stay in HK was very successful and quite nostalgic. I regretted staying for only 2 days and wondered why it had taken me so long to get back. My hosts were charming and helpful even in a very busy period for them, and no doubt I'll be back before too long.